Kashmir in winter: snow, houseboats and hot kahwa

If you've only seen Kashmir in summer photos, winter will surprise you. From mid-December to February, Gulmarg turns into one of Asia's best ski slopes, Dal Lake's houseboats glow against snowy mountains, and every meal ends with a cup of saffron kahwa.

Snow is almost guaranteed in Gulmarg from late December to February. The Gulmarg Gondola's first phase takes you to Kongdori for sledging and snow play; the second phase to Apharwat (nearly 4,000 m) is for skiers and the adventurous. Book gondola tickets in advance during the Christmas–New Year rush.

Houseboats in winter are warmer than you'd think. Good ones — like Sukoon on Dal Lake — have central heating or bukharis (traditional wood stoves), heated blankets and double-glazed windows. A sunset shikara ride with a blanket over your knees is one of Kashmir's quiet joys.

Pack properly: thermals, a down jacket, waterproof snow boots, gloves and a woollen cap. Most hotels in Gulmarg rent ski jackets and boots, so you don't need to buy everything. Remember that prepaid SIMs from other states don't work in Jammu & Kashmir — carry a postpaid connection.

Plan a buffer day. Heavy snowfall occasionally closes the Srinagar–Gulmarg road or delays flights, so we build flexibility into every winter itinerary and re-plan at no extra cost. That's the trade-off for waking up to a world that's completely white — and it's worth it.